The Sounds of Summer Photos courtesy of music festivals and visitors bureaus View Sounds of Summer gallery

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The sounds of summer

Written by Lisa Renaud


Music fans take note: a crescendo of festivals is coming up, from classical in Aspen, Colo., roots rock in New York, and alt-country in Austin, Texas, to rock in Milwaukee, classical in Chicago, and blues in Portland, Ore.

When I think about it, many of my all-time favorite musical experiences took place under a wide-open sky rather than inside a concert hall or club.
It’s festival season again — the time of year when music bursts out of doors, inviting audiences to dance under the stars. Whether you’d like to rock out at the fairgrounds or enjoy a symphony while sipping your Chardonnay on a picnic blanket, there’s a party to suit your taste. So mark your calendars and make your travel bookings early: America’s top music festivals are tuning up to celebrate this summer.

Summerfest, June 26 through July 6
This annual Milwaukee tradition is the world’s biggest music festival, drawing nearly 1 million visitors each year. So why is it still virtually unknown outside the Midwest?
That’s a good question, because Summerfest certainly deserves a bigger reputation. Sprawling across 75 acres of lakefront, it’s an 11-day-long blockbuster — but it remains endearingly affordable, low-key, and easy to navigate.
Each year, Summerfest sets up multiple stages along Lake Michigan. An $8 admission price allows you to wander in and out of performances all day long (it’s $15 if you buy tickets at the gate during the weekends or in the evening). Headliner shows in the open-air Marcus Amphitheater require a separate ticket, but even those are ridiculously cheap by the usual concert standards.
The lineup encompasses alternative rock, hip-hop, blues, country, swing, and much more — and that musical variety guarantees a truly diverse audience. There’s no denying the festival’s unfortunate tendency to book big-hair bands of the ’80s, but there’s also a great deal of classic rock that’s actually worthy of the name. Recent years have brought performances by John Fogerty, Steely Dan, Tom Petty, the Violent Femmes, and Roger Waters. (Don’t worry, kids: You can catch more current acts, such as The Fray, Ben Harper, and Ludacris.)
This being Milwaukee, the beer flows freely, along with excellent brats. A carnival-style aerial tram will whisk you from end to end, offering a bird’s eye view of the festivities.
When you’re not partying at the festival, you’ll discover that Milwaukee is a surprisingly engaging city. Don’t miss the Milwaukee Art Museum (414-224-3200; mam.org), which boasts a magnificent pavilion designed by Santiago Calatrava. Time your visit for noon, when you can watch the building’s “wings” in motion, closing and opening gracefully to the sky. Or check out the Miller Brewing Company tour (414-931-2337; millerbrewing.com), which concludes with free samples in the outdoor beer garden.
Milwaukee’s top hotel is undeniably The Pfister (800-472-4403; thepfisterhotel.com), a gracious historic gem offering gorgeous views over downtown and Lake Michigan. Make sure to book well ahead for a soothing treatment in the hotel’s luxurious WELL Spa (414-277-9207; pfisterwellspa.com).
No visit to Milwaukee would be complete without a hearty meal at Mader’s (414-271-3377; madersrestaurant.com), a cavernous German landmark that’s been serving up schnitzel and strudel for more than a century.

Essentials: Summerfest (summerfest.com) runs from June 26 to July 6 this year. Check visitmilwaukee.org for general information on the city.

Ravinia, June through September
The oldest outdoor music festival in North America, Ravinia is synonymous with summer for Chicagoans. From June through early September, there’s a jam-packed calendar of performances in a beautiful leafy setting just outside the city.
There’s a special $5 train service from Chicago, timed to arrive and depart around performances, so all you have to do is hop on board. Regular seating is available in the open-air pavilion and the more intimate Martin Theatre, but it’s more fun to pack a picnic and spread a blanket on the expansive lawn. (Many regulars lay out lavish gourmet spreads, complete with candelabras.) Whether you keep it simple or go all out, you’re in for a casual and romantic evening of music under the stars.
Ravinia is first and foremost the summer residence of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra; its world-class performances are the centerpiece of the festival. In addition to superb classical music, you’ll have your pick of dance, musical theater, jazz, blues, country, and more. The 2007 season featured artists as diverse as Tony Bennett, Rufus Wainwright, Audra McDonald, Emmylou Harris, Wynton Marsalis, Lyle Lovett, the Mormon Tabernacle Choir, and Diana Krall.
Because winters are so brutal in Chicago, residents seem especially eager to revel in the warmth of summer — and Ravinia is just one of many seasonal pleasures. You can take in a day game at Wrigley Field, one of the most famous settings in all of baseball, or lounge on the sandy beaches lining Lake Michigan. This also is a great time of year for a riverfront cruise with the Chicago Architecture Foundation (312-922-3432; architecture.org), which offers a memorable vantage point for seeing the city’s landmark buildings.
For plush accommodations, check into the Peninsula Chicago (866-288-8889; chicago.peninsula.com). This venerable hotel spoils its guests with impeccable service, a lavish spa, and a decadent chocolate buffet on weekends.
Serious foodies will want to book a table far in advance at the legendary Charlie Trotter’s (773-248-6228; charlietrotters.com), which has reigned as Chicago’s finest restaurant for 20 years. The elaborate tasting menus offer a sumptuous culinary experience. But if you’d rather get down and dirty, head to Carson’s (312-280-9200; ribs.com) for a giant slab of baby-back ribs coated in a sweet, tangy sauce and served up with a side of Carson’s famous coleslaw.

Essentials: You’ll find a complete festival schedule — plus details on tickets, transportation, and dining options — at ravinia.org. For tips on planning a trip to Chicago, check out choosechicago.com.

Safeway Waterfront Blues Festival, July 3-6
For much of the year, Portland, Ore., is gray and damp. But when summer rolls around, it’s another story: The skies are sunny, the temperatures are mild, and the lush green beauty of the Pacific Northwest beckons everyone outdoors. It’s the perfect occasion for a party — and the grassy banks of the Willamette River provide an inviting backdrop for the Portland Waterfront Blues Festival.
The largest blues festival on the West Coast supports a good cause: the suggested daily donation of $8 per person goes to the Oregon Food Bank (guests also are asked to bring two cans of food). Starting at noon each day and jamming well into the evening, the festival showcases legendary blues artists on four stages. The blues blend in with jazz, gospel, R&B, and funk to provide a spicy gumbo of different styles. Past performers have included Mavis Staples, Buddy Guy, the Neville Brothers, the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, and Etta James. On the evening of July 4, the festival caps a full day of performances with an elaborate fireworks display over the river.
Beyond singing the blues, you’ll find plenty to do in Portland. The city is full of colorful gardens; the loveliest is the Portland Japanese Garden (503-223-1321; japanesegarden.com), a tranquil place to stroll through elegant flowering landscapes. The Portland Saturday Market (actually held Saturday and Sunday; www.portlandsaturdaymarket.com) is a festive and funky place to shop for local art, handcrafted gifts, and ethnic foods. A great place to work up a sweat is Forest Park, a leafy urban wilderness where you’ll find 70 miles of trails for hiking and biking.
Adjacent to the festival grounds, the RiverPlace Hotel (800-227-1333; riverplacehotel.com) couldn’t be more convenient. The hotel sports an appealing Craftsman-inspired design and prides itself on providing top-notch, personalized service. Most of the rooms are suites, and all have plush pillow-top beds.
For an upscale dinner, book a table at Wildwood (503-248-9663; wildwoodrestaurant.com). This sleek and contemporary dining room has maintained its stellar reputation for many years by insisting on locally sourced ingredients. Beer lovers will want to sample Portland’s acclaimed brewpubs; one of the friendliest spots is the Lucky Labrador (503-236-3555; luckylab.com), where the burgers always taste better with a pint of handcrafted ale.

Essentials: This year’s festival runs July 3 to 6. Visit waterfrontbluesfest.com for information and lineups, or check travelportland.com for tips on the city.

Aspen Music Festival and School, June 19 through Aug. 17
Aspen, Colo., brings to mind images of posh boutiques and celebrity entourages. But when the snow melts off the ski slopes, the hype dies down. Summer brings wildflowers, simple pleasures — and a season of superb classical music.
The critically acclaimed Aspen Music Festival serves as a training ground for some of the world’s most promising young musicians, who come here to study and perform alongside established masters. While these up-and-coming virtuosos receive an unparalleled educational experience, lucky audience members get to savor nine weeks of brilliant performances, many of them held in intimate venues throughout town.
Every day brings multiple events, including full-scale symphonies, chamber music concerts, solo recitals, and opera. Many shows are free, while other tickets range up to $80 (there’s always free lawn seating outside the 2,000-seat Benedict Music Tent). The music seems even sweeter when it’s performed in such a magnificent natural setting.
The beauty of the Aspen Music Festival is the chance to strap on a backpack and explore the Rocky Mountains by day before settling in to enjoy a thrilling concert and a gourmet dinner each evening. Miles of hiking and biking trails wind through pristine mountain forests — or you can mount up with Aspen Wilderness Outfitters (970-963-0211; aspenwilderness.com) for a Western-style adventure on horseback. The Taylor Creek Fly Shop (970-920-1128; taylorcreek.com) has all the gear and advice you’ll need to land a prize trout on the Roaring Fork River.
Nestled at the base of Aspen Mountain, the Little Nell (888-843-6355; thelittlenell.com) combines the amenities of a large resort with the charm of a country inn. Guest rooms feature plush down bedding, gas fireplaces, and gorgeous views. The hotel’s Montagna dining room is one of the best restaurants in town, complete with a dazzling wine cellar.
Another great choice for dinner is L’Hostaria (970-925-9022; hostaria.com), a contemporary spot where the owners recreate recipes from their native Italy. The bar menu offers a huge selection of carpaccios, while all the pasta is made fresh daily. But if you just want to pull on your jeans and enjoy a burger or some spicy Mexican fare, head to the rustic Woody Creek Tavern; the outdoor patio is a great place to sip a margarita under the big Western sky.

Essentials: This year’s festival season runs June 19 to Aug. 17. Visit aspenmusicfestival.com, or check aspenchamber.org for general travel information.

Finger Lakes GrassRoots Festival of Music and Dance, July 17-20
Admit it. You’ve got some tie-dye lurking in the back of your closet, don’t you?
Well, here’s your chance to unleash your inner hippie. Just head for the scenic Finger Lakes region of upstate New York, which hosts the GrassRoots Festival of Music and Dance in late July.
Founded 18 years ago by the roots-rock band Donna the Buffalo, the festival has the decided crunch of granola (and proceeds go to support arts, education, and the fight against AIDS). But it’s serious about the music, showcasing a mind-boggling 80 bands who play practically nonstop for four days. The range of talent spans the globe from Africa to Australia, with lots of regional American styles represented as well.
The lineup focuses on contemporary and traditional roots music from around the world, including bluegrass, country, Irish, reggae, folk, hip-hop, and much more. The festival is especially famous for its raucous all-night Cajun and zydeco dance tent, where the party literally keeps going until the sun comes up.
Many GrassRoots regulars camp out for the entire four days of the festival, but personally, after a long day of dancing, I’m partial to a hot shower and a firm bed. The festival is held in the tiny village of Trumansburg, N.Y., but it makes sense to base yourself about 10 miles south in the appealing town of Ithaca, N.Y. home of Cornell University. The Statler Hotel (800-541-2501; www.statlerhotel.cornell.edu) is associated with Cornell’s Hotel Management School; you’ll appreciate the earnest service and lovely views of Cayuga Lake.
The unspoiled countryside surrounding Ithaca offers plenty of opportunity for hiking, biking, and exploring. Two majestic gorges frame the campus, offering walking trails and cascading waterfalls. You also can follow the Cayuga Wine Trail (cayugawinetrail.com), which links together more than a dozen lakeside wineries with informal tasting rooms.
Ithaca is home to a genuine culinary landmark. Moosewood Restaurant (607-273-9610; moosewoodrestaurant.com) was the incubator for a widely influential series of vegetarian cookbooks, and today it’s still going strong. It’s a casually elegant spot, where locally grown, organic ingredients are transformed into surprisingly sophisticated and satisfying dishes, many with an ethnic flair.

Essentials: You’ll find complete information on GrassRoots (including tickets and camping reservations) at grassrootsfest.org. The 2008 edition runs July 17 to 20. For information on the entire Finger Lakes region, check out visitithaca.com.

Austin City Limits Music Festival, Sept. 26-28
Summer lingers for a spell in the Lone Star State, and when September rolls around, the Austin City Limits festival kicks into high gear. Austin bills itself as the “Live Music Capital of the World,” and this annual event is a perfect reflection of the city’s quirky personality and its vibrant, left-of-center music scene.
Named one of the “World’s Coolest Music Festivals” by Forbes, Austin City Limits is named after the long-running PBS music series. It’s a three-day celebration that sprawls across eight stages in Zilker Park. The lineup of more than 100 acts leans toward hard-driving blues and alt-country rock, but it’s always wide-ranging and edgy. Past performers have included the White Stripes, Lucinda Williams, Crowded House, the Del McCoury Band, Calexico, Spoon, Van Morrison, and Coldplay. Many musicians turn up for after-shows in clubs all around town.
After a long day of partying at the festival, you can rest your weary head on the perfect down pillows at the Mansion at Judges Hill (800-311-1619; mansionatjudgeshill.com). This historic home now is a luxurious boutique hotel with supremely comfortable beds and an air of Old World elegance.
Austin prides itself on serving up fantastic Mexican fare, and Fonda San Miguel (512-459-4121; fondasanmiguel.com) is a charming setting for enjoying authentic regional dishes. With rich colors, rustic leather chairs, tin lanterns, and beautiful woodwork, it’s romantic yet laid-back. For something a little more down-at-the-heels, drive about 10 miles out into the Hill Country, where the Salt Lick (512-858-4959; saltlickbbq.com) offers huge platters of smoked beef and ribs. You’ll dine on picnic tables under the oak trees — and I’ll be impressed if you can save room for the house-made peach cobbler.
Beyond the festival itself, Zilker Park is home to Barton Springs Pool, one of Austin’s favorite swimming holes. Even if it’s steamy out, this spring-fed pool stays a refreshing 68 degrees. Zilker Park isn’t the only game in town, though: Austin has 25 miles of scenic paths for jogging and biking. You’ll also want to take a stroll around the picturesque University of Texas campus. About a half-hour from central Austin, the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center (512-232-0100; wildflower.org) features hundreds of acres filled with fragrance and color, all of it native to Texas.

Essentials: Austin City Limits is set for September 26 to 28 this year. You can check out the lineup and buy tickets at aclfestival.com. Trip-planning information can be found at austintexas.org.

Lisa Renaud is a freelance writer based in Santa Monica, Calif. A classical pianist, she leans toward old-school rock, funk, and jazz — all of it heavy on the horns. She has attended many of the nation’s top music festivals.