Great vintages} Grab a glass of red at Trio wine bar. Photo by Richard Stokes

TASTE
Wine Review Red wines of Piedmont.

Written by Mark Janes

Italy is a remarkable country in the wine world, more so than any other country. Grape vines are grown and wine is made in every village from the coast to the mountains. Ah, but where to start in Italy if you are interested in red wines? I say start in Piedmont. Piedmont, surrounded by the Alps and bordered by both France and Switzerland, has both the highest number of DOC and DOCG wines (Italy’s highest distinction), and the greatest dedication of any area in Italy to indigenous varietals. Whenever the red wines of Piedmont are the topic, you have to start in Barolo and Barbaresco, the two most well known wine areas. Both feature wines made from the grape Nebbiolo, which tends to produce age-worthy wines notable for cherry fruits, herbs such as camphor and anise, earth aromas such as truffles and mushrooms, and floral aromas such as rose petals. For most people, these wines are better with some age and reserved for special occasions as they tend to be quite expensive.

There are, however, several other areas in Piedmont that make more accessible and affordable Nebbiolos, such as Gattinara and Langhe. Barbera is Piedmont’s second most important grape, coming out best in the areas of Asti and Alba. Barbera is a great option red wine-wise, as the grape and wine have almost no tannins (the group of chemicals that make red wine bitter and unpleasant for many). The wine is loaded with acidity and plenty of spicy, red fruits. Barbera’s other advantage is its price, which starts in the teens. Dolcetto, yet another red grape that is fashioned into juicy, approachable, inexpensive reds, also is best consumed in its youth. Look for wines from Alba when shopping for dolcetto. Think you have mastered the reds of Piedmont? Not yet, as there still are several others that are more esoteric yet completely original. Brachetto is a grape grown in Piedmont where it is sculpted into a low-alcohol, slightly sweet sparkling wine. Grignolino is another indigenous grape that is made into light-colored reds and roses that are quite fruit driven yet spicy and fresh. Freisa is a red grape that usually is found slightly sweet and slightly sparkling, or frizzante, and smells like a glass full of fresh raspberries.
Piedmontese reds have something for everyone: the serious collector and the “I just want a wine to go with my pizza tonight” to the “I want something sweet that doesn’t taste like wine” crowd. With unique, indigenous varietals and an uncanny ability to go well with food, Piedmont is a place you should visit at some point in your red wine life.

Mark Janes is owner of Washoe Wine Company, Nevada’s first Master of Wine Candidate, a Certified Sommelier, Certified Wine Educator, and Certified Specialist of Wine. He can be reached at washoewine@sbcglobal.net.

Editor’s Picks for Piedmont red wines from Ciao and Washoe Wine Company. Tasting notes from Ciao:

Pecchenino Dogliani Siri d’Jermu Dolcetto 2004: deep, saturated ruby color with a bright pink rim. The nose is floral with ripe red and black berry aromas and a bit of anise. It’s a full bodied wine with medium high tannins and a long mouthwatering finish. Retail $32, by the glass $13, by the bottle $50. Produtorri del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora 1997: brick red with an orange rim. Slightly smoky nose with hints of violets, stewed fruits, earth and leather. Tannins are still big but the fruit is still there. Beautiful example of a reasonably priced 10 year old Barbaresco. Retail $52, by the glass $22, by the bottle $87

Tasting notes from Washoe Wine Company:
Cascina Tavijn Ruché 2005: Ruché is one of Piedmont's native grapes, albeit one of the more obscure ones. It's a vibrant purple in the glass and smells of flowers, especially violets. The fruits are on the darker side, blackberries and blueberries with a great acidic backbone. It's unfortunate more growers don't work with Ruché as its an incredibly interesting and age worthy grape. $22 Cascina Tavijn Grignolino 2005: Yet another obscure grape from Nadia Verrua, who is easily one of the most talented female winemakers in all of Italy. It's the color of rose petals and totally translucent. On the palate is the unmistakable taste of cranberries. Be aware, the structure and acid profile are quite high, but they should be as this wine made for the table, especially with cured meats. $17